2011 Fur Runway Report Day 5
As New York Fashion Week came to a close, it became clear that fur is not simply integral to today’s key trends, it is one of the season’s most important trends. Designers used fur to f lex their creative muscles, delivering exciting, innovative, luxurious fur and fur-trimmed fashions and accessories.
Rock ‘n’ roll energy met fur royalty in Helen Yarmak’s Fall 2011 collection. Sable, once the fur exclusive to nobility, was fashioned into a side-buttoned poncho so sumptuous it was in a class by itself. A fox vest dyed bright orange
would rock the house wherever it goes and a glossy black kidskin coat with black goat trim defined urban sophistication. However, it was her colorful spin on combating winter that got everyone’s attention: camouflage-printed furs. A swirl of black, inky blue and gray, the iconic pattern was rendered on free-flowing vests, wraps and flattering dresses in mink and fox. Although shown with jeans, it was clear they could lend a cool edge to dressier looks, too. True chameleons, the camouflage furs are reversible, a Yarmak signature that recurred throughout the
collection. Rather than merely fabricating a lining, Yarmak sueded, bronzed and laser-printed the natural back of the furs, adding to every garment’s manifold versatility.
With guest designer Johnny Weir, Adrienne Landau presented a fierce and fearlessly fun collection of fur fashion for Fall 2011. Landau exuberantly embraced the layered look, a mash-up of color, texture, proportion and silhouette. Trends, seen elsewhere on the runways, found some of the most creative expressions in fur in this line. Patchwork, for example came in a multi-colored fox vest. Multi-colored mink vests with a zigzag pat tern evoked a tribal feel. Where capes and stoles may have been the fur at traction at other shows, here they were found topping coats. Weir sported the look in the mink coat and silver fox body stole he designed. A short mink fuchsia-striped vest over a purple Mongolian jacket was layering at its most daring.
Famous for his sense of fun and campy style, Jeremy Scott gave his fans plenty to cheer with his candy-colored romp through the Nineties’ club scene. Where he used fur, he played fun-house mirror with proportion
and volume: a tangerine shrunken shearling jacket that topped a cheeky pill pattern jumpsuit, a mini skirt with a large
swathe of bright orange-dyed fox that looked as if it might engulf the silver leather top half of the skirt and a bubble-gum pink chubby that was worn over a long, sheer dress and boy shorts in silver. Scott’s Mary Jane platforms covered in long goat hair were cool enough for the club but as cozy as bedroom slippers.
An exploration through rugged terrain, Christian Cota’s Fall collection was packed with earth-hued knits, separates and coats that can take a woman from day to night — or from the tundra to TriBeCa. In his first foray into fur, he explored “painterly effects through texture” as demonstrated by the nomadic plaid wool onde fox coat worn over a long tank jersey dress, as well as in a long two-toned feather fox long vest and a sheared blue frost fox knit jacket, both of
which were also shown with prints that beautifully played off the texture and variegated colors in the fur. Other highlights: a felted wool pencil skirt with a swathe of fox running down the front; a heathered wool
long- sleeve top with fox running diagonally across the front, curling around the back and touching the front of the opposite shoulder; and a printed onde fox sheath dress that managed to have shape despite the fullness of the fur.
Elene Cassis presented a range of lady-like luxe looks for Fall 2011. Inspired by the New York skyline, the collection — mostly dresses in graphic patterns in black and white and shimmering neutrals — was a study in sophistication. Plush fox neckpieces and hats added to the glamour and cosmopolitan allure. A black mink vest with leather belt and a black mink short top worn over a black and white silk jersey dress expressed an easy, casual elegance. The designer took a walk on the wild side with a cape — a strong silhouette this season — in black mink and bouclé wool that needed only the thigh-high boots to show how fabulous it was.
No longer the little add-on extras of seasons past, fur accessories made a big statement on the runways for fall, reaching new heights with bold, attention-grabbing looks — from dramatic face-framing hoods and high collars/neck pieces to oversized handbags and the sexiest boots and stilettos ever seen. Some of the most exciting looks included: The fox-brimmed louz hat at Oscar de la Renta worn alluringly low on the forehead. Imperially high on the neck, Christian Cota’s printed onde fox collars were feathery and flattering. Long on sex appeal were J. Mendel’s open-toed, thigh-high boots in navy Indian broadtail, Ohne Titel’s cuff stiletto boot with fox trim and Alexander Wang’s dyed red fox stilettos with mud flaps. Dennis Basso’s marigold chinchilla and alligator handbag and Michael Kors’ all-fox messenger bag were sporty chic at it most luxe. Last but not least, Venexiana’s striking fox muff with fox tails shown with a chiffon evening gown and Elene Cassis’ wine fox muff paired with matching fox neckpiece made a strong case for a serious revival of the muff.